A collection of informative resources to answer most questions.
Current format for product made after 1/1/2019: Ayymmddbbb The first letter is A for made in America, the first two digits after the A is the last two digits of the year of manufacture, the fourth and fifth digits represent the month, the sixth and seventh digits represent the day of the month and the last three digits represent the batch number for that day. Example: A190615023 – This material was manufactured on June 15, 2019 Format for product made prior to 1/1/2019: Aymmddbbbb The first letter is A for made in America, the first digit after the A is the last digit of the year of manufacture, the third and fourth digits represent the month, the fifth and sixth digits represent the day of the month and the last four digits represent the batch number. Example: A604270023 – This material was manufactured on April 27, 2016 Please contact Technical Service with any additional questions.
Yes we do. Please download the most recent State VOC Laws map here.
Moisture levels above 10% can slow the drying of water based wood glues such as Titebond Original, II and III to the point where, wood above 16% moisture content, may not dry at all. Water based glues can take 24 hours to fully cure before machining. A phenomenon called "sunken glue joints" can occur if water based glued assemblies are machined before moisture equilibrium is completed near the glue lines.
If Titebond Wood Glues are accidentally spilled on clothing, it is important to immediately wet it with water and keep it wet until all adhesive is rubbed off of the clothing. Do not put the clothing item in the dryer until all adhesive is removed. Heat will melt the adhesive into the fabric and it will be permanent. Titebond II and Titebond III if allowed to dry will not release from fabric. A mixture of Acetone/Water/Vinegar will soften the adhesive but will not dissolve it. Scraping the softened adhesive should remove a majority of the adhesive.
Moisture barriers have been on the market for several years, but recently they have experienced a surge in popularity. To the inexperienced, a moisture barrier may seem to be an unnecessary addition to the cost of a hardwood floor. Concrete is hygroscopic. Like wood, concrete has the ability to absorb and release water if conditions are correct. Concrete attracts water because it is porous. Once the pores get wet, they draw in water from their surroundings through wicking action (capillary suction). Do you need a moisture barrier? Yes. The concrete slab could have an acceptable level of moisture at the time of your flooring installation. Unfortunately, installation conditions do not dictate what the slab moisture will be in a few days, months or years. There are many contributing factors to the slab absorbing moisture. Is the grading correct outside your home? Was the concrete poured at the correct water, sand, Portland cement, and rock proportions? Is there a plastic moisture barrier in place or has it been compromised? These are great questions that usually won’t be answered until there is a concrete slab moisture problem. By that time, it is usually too late to save the wood flooring. Purchasing a moisture barrier is the safest, most economical way for a consumer to assure the slab’s capillary action will not ruin the flooring installation. Usually, for less then 10 percent of the cost of a hardwood floor, a moisture barrier can be purchased - often adding an additional moisture warranty to the installation.
Instant Bond - Thin Assembly Time: 5 seconds Cure Speed: 3 seconds; Instant Bond - Medium Assembly Time: 7 seconds Cure Speed: 5 seconds; Instant Bond - Thick Assembly Time: 10 seconds Cure Speed: 8 seconds; Instant Bond - Gel Assembly Time: 30 seconds Cure Speed: 20 seconds When Instant Bond Activator is used with the Instant Bond adhesive, all assembly and cure times can be cut in half.
Ensure the surface is clean and dry. If dust or dirt is on the intended bonded surface, use a small amount of acetone until clean. Acidic surfaces (wood with dark tannic acids, some leathers and metals) can inhibit curing of the Instant Bond adhesive. Use the Titebond Activator to start the curing process or, spray one side with Titebond Activator and spread Titebond Instant bond on the other surface for an instant bond
All Instant Bond caps are equipped with "anti-clogging" needles to prevent clogging and premature curing.
Ensure the surface is clean and dry of any material such as oil or dirt.
Yes, do not use on foam, polyethylene and/or polypropylene plastics.
Yes, not designed for continuous water submersion and installing rear view mirrors.
No, Instant Bond adhesives are not only designed for wood. They will also bond plastics, metal, rubber, cove base, brass, china, leather, pottery, fiberglass and more. For a complete listing, please contact our technical service team at 1-800-347-4583.
Place a small amount of acetone on the effected area and rub until the adhesive has been removed. Please follow solvent vendor’s precautions. Nail polish remover can also be used to remove adhesive. Be cautious as these products are flammable and can irritate skin.
Instant Bond can withstand temperatures as low as -65°F.
Instant Bond is designed for interior usage.
Instant Bond can be used in temperatures from -65F to 200F. Not recommended for exterior use due to slight softening of the adhesive with water.
"Tooling time" is the amount of time you have to work, smooth, tool or otherwise manipulate the material once it’s applied before it forms a skin layer.
All sealants will release some odor during its cure or dry cycle. Most of this occurs during the first 24 hours after the product is applied. Titebond neutral cure sealants do not have the vinegar-type odor that is associated with acetoxy cure sealants such as Titebond 100% Silicone Sealant and other acetoxy cure silicone products on the market.
Some materials, such as concrete, soft woods, stone, specially treated metals, plastics, or other man-made materials, might have unpredictable surface characteristics. Therefore, we recommend that you test for adhesion by applying the caulk to a small area before proceeding with an entire job. It is also very important to prepare surfaces properly. This should be done on the same day you apply the product. The following are guidelines for preparing a variety of surfaces.
We recommend that consumers not use caulk in any electrical application. Contact a technical service representative at 1-800-347-GLUE for more information.
Dry time will depend on the size of the bead, atmospheric and substrate conditions. A skin will form on a sealant in 1 to 3 hours at 70°F and 50% relative humidity. Once a skin is formed it can be tested for durability and may be painted over at that time. Full drying or curing may take up to two weeks depending on atmospheric conditions and condition of the substrates to which the sealant is applied. As an example, water based sealants may take over one month to cure if the substrate’s moisture content is high. In this case, a reactive sealant may be a better choice.
The air temperature and humidity in the air can affect how long reactive sealant takes to cure or a water based sealant to dry. A reactive sealant will cure slower when it is cool and the air is dry (low humidity). A water based sealant will dry slower when it is cooler out or more humid. Make sure to vary your wait time based on the humidity level.
Titebond caulk features a "Shelf Life" date on the cartridge. This should tell you if the caulk is still fresh and able to be used. If you cannot read the date or want to test the caulk prior to starting a project, there is also a simple test that only takes 10 to 15 minutes. Run a small bead on a piece of cardboard. If after about 15 minutes, the product doesn't form a "skin," the product is probably too old and won't ever fully cure (dry completely). For a complete list of Titebond wood glues, adhesives and sealants shelf lives click here.
You should caulk gaps, cracks, or joints in areas where you want to keep water and/or air out of your home. The list below includes common places caulk is needed.
No, it is not recommended by Titebond, nor most siding manufacturers. Butt Joints of Plank Siding are too small to accommodate a large enough bead for proper application and tooling, therefore, the seal fails. If it is necessary to seal butt joints, the expected amount of expansion and contraction must be calculated to determine the correct size and spacing for the butt joints based on the type of caulk being considered for application. As an example, a 30 foot run of fiber cement board may expand and contract a total of ½ inch from winter to summer. If a sealant with a 25% expansion/contraction rating is used, then the butt joints must allow a total of 1 inch in width to accommodate this movement as long as sealant is applied at mid point temperatures. This must be divided equally between all butt joints in that run. For further details please refer to the installation instructions on the caulking tube or call Technical Service at 1-800-347-GLUE.
Water based sealants should be tooled using a wet foam brush, sponge, paint brush or by simply using your figure. Solvent based sealants should be tooled with similar materials, but wetted with mineral spirits. Both Solvent and Water-based products will shrink and take-on a concave form. All reactive sealants (100% solids) should be tooled to be concave for maximum sealant performance.
Clean the crack, seam, or joint where caulk will be applied with bleach and water solution. Remove dirt, chalky paint and other residue completely before applying caulk. Avoid darkness, dampness and potential food sources for mildew to grow.
Caulk should be applied in a line (called a “bead”) no thinner than ¼”. While drying, thinner beads of water based sealant will shrink which may hamper their ability to be tooled or create a proper seal. The depth of sealant should be ½ the width of the joint, but sealant should be no less than 1/8” deep
-Caulk & Sealant products are not intended for continual water submersion -Ensure product is skinned prior to painting -Use color coated nails if recommended by the fiber cement board manufacturer. -Do not fill nail holes or tool sealant into thin films as these films may discolor. -Test product thoroughly with all substrates, prior to use, to determine project suitability
-Clean tools with isopropyl alcohol before sealants dries, following solvent vendor’s precautions. -Once cured, caulk & sealant must be cut or scraped away.
Do not apply product in hot and dry conditions or when heavy rain or freezing temperatures are anticipated.
Extrude product into joint with a steady consistent pressure in a rounded bead form. DO NOT smear or wipe sealant to a thin consistency outside of joint or masked area. For a proper seal design apply product using the following guidelines: ‡2:1 width to depth ‡2-sided adhesion only Note: The ideal caulk bead forms an hourglass shape about twice as wide as it is deep, allowing the bead to stretch without tearing or pulling away from the substrate. The sealant should be no thicker than ½ inch and not thinner than 1/8" inch. Use backer rod to control depth and bead shape. Once product is applied, DO NOT wipe over the bead with a solvent. Before caulk & sealant dries remove masking tape and proceed to clean up. Before product cures, remove painters tape and wipe away excess adhesive with water and a wet cloth, isopropyl alcohol or mineral spirits. If product is cured use a utility knife to cut away unwanted caulk or sealant.
Mask edges using painter’s tape, adjacent to joints and around the joint area before applying caulk or sealant. Tape forces product to lie in a straight line and allows for easy cleanup. If joint’s depth exceed 5/16” place a backer rod in joint before applying product in a rounded bead form.
Read instructions, located on caulking cartridge, to learn how deep to cut spout of nozzle. Nozzle should be cut on a slant and the foil seal punctured before placing cartridge in cartridge gun.
For maximum adhesion remove old caulk from substrate with utility knife or caulk removal tool. Once joint is clean wipe away excess debris with a rag using a bleach and water solution (do not use soap). Rinse area well with water and allow too dry prior to new caulking application. Replace any damaged areas that have been weakened by decay. Sealant will break or pull away damaged substrate.
Titebond Heavy Duty Construction and Titebond PROvantage Heavy Duty Construction are the preferred product for installing glass mirrors. It is important to use mechanical fasteners when working with heavy mirrors, and is required when installing mirrors in a public building.
Our literature states the shelf life of a majority of our wood glues as two years. Most of our yellow and white glues, including Titebond Original and Titebond II, remain usable beyond two years. Should Titebond Original become thick and stringy, or Titebond II turn into an orange-colored gel, these changes signify that the glue is no longer usable. The minimum shelf life of Titebond III is stated as one two years. When stored appropriately at room temperature, Titebond III is expected to last beyond its stated shelf life. If thickened, shake vigorously by firmly tapping bottle on a hard surface until product is restored to original form. For a complete list of Titebond wood glues, adhesives and sealants shelf lives click here.
Once the urethane has been squirted into the space underneath the flooring, the usual cure time is within thirty to forty-five minutes.
The amount of lineal feet possible from a tube of construction adhesive is determined by the size of the bead. Typical recommended bead is a minimum ¼" diameter. The following tables provide coverages for differing bead sizes.
Titebond III Ultimate – light brown Titebond Original – yellow Titebond II Premium – translucent yellow Titebond Dark – brown Titebond Liquid Hide – transparent amber Titebond Melamine – colorless Titebond Quick & Thick - colorless Titebond Translucent – colorless Titebond Instant Bond – colorless
"Shelf life" is a conservative estimate of the minimum time period that we would expect a given product to remain usable, when stored as directed. This concept might also be called "useable service life" or "storage life," and it necessarily refers to both the physical handling properties and the ability of the product to perform properly. When used in reference to wood glues, reaching the stated shelf life does not mean that a product will "expire" or become unusable. Instead, we view the stated shelf life of most of our glues merely as a guideline to avoid potential aging concerns. In reality, as long as products like Titebond Original, Titebond II and Titebond III remain fluid, without a drastic change in appearance, they will continue to perform as intended. For a complete list of Titebond wood glues, adhesives and sealants shelf lives click here.
Titebond Heavy Duty and PROvantage Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive are the best choice for metal installations. Titebond Contractor Grade Heavy Duty Construction could also be appropriate if strength requirements are modest. It is important that the surface to which the metal is being bonded is porous and unpainted so that these products can dry.
Because a surface layer of oil or tannic acid tends to build up on these species, they can present a problem. For either type of wood, planing, jointing, or sanding shortly before bonding will remove the contaminating layer and allow successful bonding. Otherwise, the surface being bonded will need to be wiped with acetone to remove the layer. Acetone dries quickly and allows bonding almost immediately after the surfaces have been wiped.
All of our Titebond wood glues are safe to use and produce no harmful fumes. They meet the requirements of ASTM D4236 for safe use with arts and crafts. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards.
While all Titebond products provide superior performance, Titebond III is especially useful for outdoor applications in cooler temperatures or when concern for substantial moisture calls for the use of a Type I glue. For interior applications, the longer working time of Titebond III provides woodworkers the necessary latitude to ensure that substrates are precisely aligned before being bonded. Overall, Titebond III combines superior strength, Type I water-resistance, long open time and low chalk temperature into one easy-to-use formulation.
While polyurethane glues bond well to a variety of materials, Titebond III is superior in many ways. In addition to excellent water-resistance, it provides a stronger bond on wood-to-wood applications, doesn't foam and requires less clamp time. Titebond III has no health issues, doesn't require the use of gloves and cleans up with water. It is significantly less expensive than polyurethane glues and offers similar coverage rates.
Titebond manufactures several construction adhesives for bonding wet, frozen or treated lumber. Appropriate adhesives have passed the APA's AFG-01 or ASTM D-3498 specifications.
Wood flooring curls or cups because the bottom of the flooring has become higher in moisture than the top. This situation can reflect moisture absorbed from some flooring products or may indicate high moisture levels in the subfloor itself. While changes due to the moisture from an adhesive are temporary because the amount of moisture involved is limited and soon evens out, moisture from the subfloor is often a more severe and recurring problem.
Franklin wood flooring products can be used over vinyl tiles, rolled or sheet goods as long as those tiles are well anchored and clean. We recommend the use of an ammonia based cleaning product to insure the removal of any wax that may have been applied to the tile.
Both of these tests are conducted using 6” by 6” birch laminates glued together to make three-ply plywood. The test for Type I is clearly more stringent than Type II, and involves boiling the glue bonds and testing the specimens while they are wet. Type I testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 1" by 3" specimens, boiling them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 145°F oven for 20 hours. They are boiled for an additional 4 hours, then immediately cooled using running water. The specimens are sheared while wet, and the bonds must pass certain strength and wood failure requirements to pass the Type I specification.Type II testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 2" by 5" specimens, soaking them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 120°F oven for 19 hours. This is repeated for a total of three cycles, and the bonds must not delaminate to pass the Type II specification.
The "crackling effect" is a process that can give an antique appearance to just about anything. With this effect virtually anything will appear distinguishably aged. Traditionally, most hobbyists have used Titebond Liquid Hide Glue Instructions to achieve this effect.
The key to the disassembly of glue joints is weakening the bond. For Titebond Original, Titebond II and Titebond III, raising the glue joint temperature with a heat gun or a blow dryer will reduce the glue's strength. Steam from an iron may also work. Placing a few drops of water on the edge of a joint made with Titebond Liquid Hide Glue will, after absorbed, cause the joint to weaken. For Titebond Instant Bond glues, placing a few drops of acetone on the joint may cause the joint to loosen after absorption.
Construction adhesives such as Titebond Heavy Duty Construction and the PROvantage line may be removed with mineral spirits both before and after they have dried. The water-based Titebond Construction Adhesives may be cleaned with water when they are wet, but will require mineral spirits if they have dried.
In order to use the Titebond Urethane Repair System correctly, a hole slightly larger than 1/16" needs to be drilled into the wood flooring. The needle of the gun is inserted into this hole and the two-part urethane adhesive is squirted underneath the floor. For instructions, see this article.
For most of our wood glues, we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours.
Our water-based products may reach full strength in 24 - 72 hours under warm and dry conditions, but will require several days longer in damp or cool conditions. Finally, solvent-based and PROvantage products typically develop about one-third to one-half strength overnight regardless of conditions, but require a week or more to achieve full strength.
Yes, most of our Construction Adhesives have been formulated for exterior use but also require mechanical fasteners for most exterior jobs. None of our construction adhesives are recommended for applications below the water line or for continuous submersion in water.
Franklin recommends the removal of black cutback or other adhesives before the use of our products, for two reasons. First, we often find that the adhesive already on the floor is not well anchored or is so weak that routine movement in the floor tears it apart. The second concern is that one of the adhesives involved may affect the other, changing its capabilities and, ultimately affecting the anchorage of the floor.
The preferred method for removal of any existing adhesive is mechanical, where the bulk of the adhesive is scraped from the subfloor using a tool like an ice scraper. The residue is then abraded or sanded, and the dust particles collected. This method should never be used, however, if you suspect the adhesive (or even the old flooring material) may contain asbestos or mold. In the United States, asbestos was phased out of use in the 1980’s, but it is highly possible that any material that was installed over 15 years ago could still contain the cancerous substance. Federal regulations require that only licensed and certified hazardous material contractors can remove asbestos containing materials. These contractors are readily available today in most communities and can test samples of the material for asbestos at a nominal fee. Mold may also exist if any water damage is visibly apparent. This material can present severe health effects if not removed properly. Again, a certified contractor who is well experienced with this type of material should be consulted. After removal of the adhesive, some discoloration may remain. This is actually a sign that the new adhesive will be bonding to a solid surface, which will allow good anchorage for the new floor.
Adhesive removal is easiest when the adhesive is still wet. Water based adhesives are removed with water, while urethane based adhesives are removed with mineral spirits. The best way to remove dried adhesive from the top of a wood floor depends on the adhesive that was used. While most dried adhesives can be removed using mineral spirits, polyurethane based adhesives which have been allowed to cure on top of the floor are difficult to remove. Test any products used on an uninstalled piece of flooring to ensure compatibility with flooring finish. Franklin is not responsible for any damage created by improper removal techniques. PROvantage products may be removed, when wet and dry, with mineral spirits.
Yes, any of our wood Flooring Products can be used over radiant heated floors. A concrete primer is recommended for lightweight concrete. We suggest that the system be turned off for a day or so before the installation. This process ensures that the adhesive will provide the necessary working time to install the floor. Once the floor is in place, the system can be turned back on, and the adhesive will not be affected by the operating temperature of the radiant heat system. The thermostat of the radiant heating system cannot exceed 85°F. during normal use.
Yes, clean concrete is probably the most common surface to which wood flooring is bonded, and it serves as a good base for our adhesives. We do not recommend our adhesives for use over concrete that is high in moisture content or concrete that has been sealed or painted. For high moisture content concrete, we offer moisture control products.
In general, excessive walking on the floor should not occur for several days. In particular, the floor should not be exposed to heavy traffic or furniture until the adhesive is near full strength. While polyurethane adhesives generally reach full strength within two days, other adhesives can take a week or more. If it is necessary to use a portion of the floor earlier, covering that portion with sheets of padded plywood, at least ½" thick, will spread the load involved and minimize any effect on the bond. When placing the plywood, take care not to scratch the surface of the new wood flooring.
Titebond 771-Step requires the use of a 150 pound roller within 30 minutes of flooring intallation. For all other Titebond Flooring Products, Franklin International recommends walking the floor every two to three hours during the installation. Look for any adhesive on the surface of the flooring. Try to prevent any adhesive from curing on the surface of prefinished floor. Also, ensure the side gaps and end gaps of the flooring are snuggly fit together. As a result of these tasks, the floor is in effect being "rolled" and proper contact is achieved. Look for areas that begin to lift and place a weight on those areas until the adhesive has built enough strength to hold the flooring in place. After the adhesive has dried, remove the weights and any wedges to allow the floor to have room for normal expansion and contraction.
Heating a bond made with any of our construction adhesives is generally the best approach to weakening it enough to allow separation or disassembly. While most adhesives weaken progressively as they increase in temperature, temperatures of 150°F or higher are often needed to have the desired effect. A heat gun is a good tool for this task.
Franklin International recommends only urethane Flooring Products for gluing plywood to concrete. To glue plywood substrate over concrete: • Use 3/4" exterior-grade plywood that has been cut into 4' x 4' sections. • Score plywood backside 3/8" deep every 8"-10" in order to relieve tension in plywood. (There should be 4-6 cuts in all 4' x 4' sheets.) • Use a 1/4" x 1/4" square-notched trowel to apply adhesive to concrete. • Set 4' x 4' sheets into wet adhesive. • Add weight as necessary to ensure adhesive remains in contact with plywood as it cures. • Allow adhesive to cure overnight before proceeding with the flooring installation.
A number of products can be used for foamboard depending on the substrate base on which the foamboard will be installed. For installation on porous substrates such as wood, plywood, regular OSB, unpainted/uncoated cement board, use Titebond All Purpose Adhesive (solvent based, high VOC, not available in all states), Titebond Contractor Grade Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive (water-based), or Titebond Fast Grab FRP Adhesive. For Moisture resistant drywall or OSB, ceramic tile, fire resistant plywood/OSB, or painted/coated non-porous substrates use Titebond Fast Set Polyurethane Construction Adhesive or Titebond Advanced Polymer Panel Adhesive. Be sure to follow all installation instructions from the foamboard manufacturer and on the adhesive’s label and Technical Data Sheet. Call our Technical Service group at 800-347-4583 for any other questions.
For most of our water-based wood glues, it is often best to use a damp cloth and remove excess glue before it has dried. After the glues have dried, scraping or sanding works well. Steam from an iron may also be effective, but it will not take the glue out of the pores of the wood. Once dry, Titebond Instant Bond Wood Adhesives may be removed with acetone or sanding.
Most of our glues are designed to bond bare wood. Painting or staining a wood blocks the pores, keeping the glue from penetrating into the wood. It may be possible that some of our glues may work for gluing together painted or stained surfaces. It is necessary to remember that the overall bond will only be as strong as the bond between the paint and the wood. We recommend that all substrates be clean of any type of paint, stain, or sealer.
Most of our water-based wood glues can be thinned with water up to 5% by weight or by volume. Adding more than 5% water to our glues will decrease the bond strength. Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is thinned by gently heating the bottle in a pan of warm water.
A number of products can be used for tub surround installations depending on the substrate base on which the tub surround will be installed. For installation on porous substrates such as unpainted/coated cement board, use Titebond All Purpose Adhesive (solvent based, high VOC, not available in all states), Titebond Contractor Grade Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive (water-based), or Titebond Fast Grab FRP Adhesive. For Moisture resistant drywall, ceramic tile or painted/coated non-porous substrates use Titebond Fast Set Polyurethane Construction Adhesive or Titebond Advanced Polymer Panel Adhesive. Be sure to follow all installation instructions from the tub surround manufacturer and on the adhesive’s label and Technical Data Sheet. Call our Technical Service group at 800-347-4583 for any other questions.
It is possible to change the color of any of our water-based Titebond Wood Glues by adding either dyes or pigments. Water-soluble dyes such as food coloring or TransTints can be added directly to the wood glues with good mixing. Powdered dyes or pigments should be mixed with a drop of Dawn dish detergent and a small amount of water to help prevent lumps in the pigment mix. Mix until smooth. Diluting the pigment mixture further to 50% solids will allow for better mixing into the glue. Add no more than 5 percent dye to keep from affecting bond strength of the adhesive. Start by adding a small amount of the dye/pigment mix, as small amounts can significantly alter color. Before making your final color decision, be sure to let a sample of the dyed glue dry. When the mixtures dry, they may look different from the wet state.
When different wood species are used in a project, it is important that all woods have the same moisture content. Storing all the wood together in the same warm, dry location before beginning the project will help all the wood reach the same moisture content.
Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is very sensitive to humidity, therefore it is often hard to tell when to take off your clamps. The best way to determine your clamp time is to place a scrap piece of wood with Liquid Hide Glue spread on it next to your newly glued and clamped piece. When the glue on the scrap piece of wood is dry, you can take your clamps off. Be sure to wait at least 24 hours before you stress the joints.
Aside from certain thin spread, pressure sensitives, most other adhesives need to dry after the materials being joined are positioned. This requires that one of the materials being bonded be porous. This means that a multi-purpose flooring adhesive designed to install vinyl cannot be used to install vinyl over vinyl because neither of the surfaces is porous and the adhesive will not dry.
The Franklin Urethane Repair Kit is a two-part urethane system that enables contractors to repair loose or popping areas in a finished floor. The adhesive in the system has a low viscosity that sets quickly and is fully cured within thirty to forty-five minutes of application. The easy flow characteristics of the urethane adhesive, unlike traditional epoxies, provide increased coverage of the repair The Franklin Urethane Repair Kit is easy to use with minimal holes to drill - an 1/8" drill bit is all that is required. Therefore, upon completion of the process, when used as directed, the floor will be repaired with no visible defects.
Contact cements are unique in that they are applied to both surfaces and must dry before the two surfaces are put together. The bond is then immediately formed when the two layers of dried adhesive are pressed together. Contact cements can only be successful when at least one of the materials being bonded is somewhat flexible.
For any successful project, using the appropriate product is critical. Be sure to review the label for product applications, instructions, helpful hints and cautions. If you have any questions regarding product labeling, please call 1-800-347-4583.
When installing large panels such as tub surrounds or sheets of FRP, bracing or blocking the panels for the first 24 hours provides assurance that a good bond will be achieved even if the panel is somewhat warped or the wall surface slightly irregular.
Water-based wood glues such as Titebond Original or Titebond II build strength in a joint as they lose moisture into the surrounding wood. This moisture causes the wood on both sides of the bondline to swell slightly. If the project is planed or sanded before this swelling disappears, the high moisture wood near the joint will continue to dry and will shrink slightly compared to the rest of the wood. Allow your project to dry for several days before sanding or planing.
All substrates must be clean, dry, structurally sound, properly cured and free of dirt, oil, paint, old adhesive, wax, sealers and curing agents. General scouring with 20 grit or #3½ paper will remove most compounds.
While the specific angle is not critical, it should be apparent that any given trowel deposits less adhesive when it is tilted more toward the floor. In order to provide enough adhesive to bond the floor properly, it is essential that this guideline be followed.
The notches in the trowel are designed to deposit the correct amount of adhesive. Notches which become clogged with dried or cured adhesive, or notches which are reduced in size as the trowel wears from abrasion on the floor need to be cleaned or re-filed so they perform properly.
If there is conflicting information, or if you have other questions, it is better to call our technical service line and ask, instead of beginning what may turn out to be an unsuccessful installation.
Using a flooring primer before installing a wood floor over Gyp-Crete or other lightweight concrete materials will toughen the chalky surface and improve the anchorage of the floor.
Stepped joints typically result when pieces of wood of different moisture contents are edge glued together in making a tabletop or cabinet door. It is important to be sure that all the wood for a given project is at the same moisture content before beginning a project. Allowing the wood to acclimate or sit exposed in your shop for a week or two is one way to be sure each piece of wood has a similar moisture content.
When working with woods that are high in tannic acid or are considered oily, wiping the joints with acetone before gluing them up ensures a good bond. Acetone clears the contaminants from the wood's pores on the bonding surface and dries quickly without leaving any residue. A good bonding surface can also be achieved by sanding or planing the wood just before gluing the joints.
Both solvent based and water based adhesives need to dry to develop strength and perform properly. They must dry by losing solvent or water through one of the surfaces being bonded. Non-porous materials such as painted surfaces, glazed tile, metal, plastic or foam all serve to prevent these products from drying, so neither water nor solvent based adhesives can be used to bond two non-porous substrates together. Urethane based adhesives cure rather than dry, and thus, can be used for bonding non-porous materials to other non porous materials.
To decrease the clamp time in a vacuum press, put a thick piece of wood into the vacuum bag to help absorb the moisture from the glue. This technique is best utilized when laminating many thin veneers together because the water in the glue saturates the veneers.
Use a small artist's brush to coat the surface with glue before applying homemade wood filler. Doing this will assure that the surface is wet enough to encourage adhesion. Otherwise the wood filler mix may be too dry to adhere well to the surface to which it is being applied.
While some of our adhesives can be applied at temperatures as low as 0°F and still achieve good bonds, other adhesives or applications are limited to higher temperatures. Finally, while some water-based products may perform well when applied at very cold temperatures, the adhesives in their containers must be kept above freezing to retain the consistency required for application. If cold temperatures are involved, read the label.
Although good joint design minimizes the need for gluing end grain, sometimes end grain joints are unavoidable. The strength of end grain joints can be improved if the "open" end grain is first sized. A sizing mixture may be made by mixing one part to two parts water to one part glue. Place the sizing mixture on the end grain. Let it soak in for no more than two minutes, and then continue with a regular application of glue.
The expansion space recommended by the flooring manufacturer is designed to allow the floor to grow, as it will do whenever it increases in moisture. Typically, the baseboard, quarter round molding, or door casing covers this space and it is not visible. If the floor is not given the room to expand, it will ultimately fail when it increases enough in moisture to grow beyond the space in which it has been confined.
Adhesive removal is easiest when the adhesive is still wet. Water based adhesives are removed with water, while urethane based adhesives are removed with mineral spirits. The best way to remove dried adhesive from the top of a wood floor depends on the adhesive that was used. While most dried adhesives can be removed using mineral spirits, it is best not to allow polyurethane based adhesives to cure on top of the floor. Test any products used to remove adhesive on an uninstalled piece of flooring to ensure compatibility with flooring finish. Franklin is not responsible for any damage created by improper removal techniques.
Although it is convenient to trowel out large areas of adhesive, keep in mind the working time of the adhesive and the layout of the floor. If you cannot lay flooring into all of the adhesive troweled within the open time, the flooring will not be adhered in some areas. One way to avoid this problem is to periodically lift up a piece of flooring that has just been installed to verify that a minimum of 80% of the adhesive is transferring to the wood.
Keep in mind that adhesives can only produce well-anchored floors when the surface to which they are applied is sound. Bonding to wax, dirt, paint or sealers will produce a bond no stronger than the wax, dirt, paint or sealer and will often create a problem that could be avoided by properly cleaning the subfloor.
Our literature specifies that that the moisture content of a concrete subfloor registers no more than 3.0 lbs/1000 square feet/24 hours on a calcium chloride test or no more than 4.5 on a Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter meter. If these methods are not available, taping a piece of plastic or foil over several square feet of slab, or laying a rubber mat over the slab for twenty-four hours will provide similar information. If these methods are used, moisture levels are too high for installation of a wood floor if the concrete is darkened or if moisture condenses on the bottom of the plastic or foil. The moisture content of a wood subfloor should not be more than 4% higher than that of the wood being installed.
Glue joint "squeeze out" may make the area around the joint difficult to stain. Use masking tape to cover the areas that you do not want glue to soak into. The sections that were masked will be free of stain-resisting glue when the masking tape is removed.
The recommended trowel has been selected to provide sufficient installation time along with an appropriate amount of adhesive and to bridge irregularities in the bonding surfaces. Please click here for approximate square foot coverage according to the recommended trowel size.